Proper lawn care involves more than just fertilizers, spraying,
watering and mowing. It involves doing the right treatment, at the
right time, with the right quantity, for the right reason, by the
Our lawn care technicians are trained to do the right treatment for
your lawn so you can get maximum pleasure with a minimum of
inconvenience to you and your family.
The government, only after rigorous testing, issues licenses and
permits and we only use government approved and registered
products. With continued learning through our own library, trade
and government publications, seminars, and the Internet we are able
to keep abreast of the newest products, equipment and techniques
available to give you the best service possible.
We also have a variety of lawn care programs and services that can
be tailored to fit your needs. Whether your lawn needs a major
rejuvenation or you simply want to maintain what you have now, our
programs and people can give you what you need. If you are not sure
what is required, our professionals are more than ready to assist
you in achieving your desired results with recommendations and
helpful hints. Things like mower height, watering, applying
fertilizer can do more harm than good if done improperly or at the
wrong time or rate. Therefore a little money spent now can save a
lot of expense and aggravation later.
Our professionals are trained in the I.P.M. (Integrated Pest
Management) system. Simply stated, this is a way of "controlling
pests with minimal use of chemicals." I.P.M. is the way of the
future and companies and individuals must adapt to these new
methods as they become more practical and economical. Our pros at
Price Landscaping Services are committed to this program and
implement it when ever possible and are currently the only fully IPM Accredited company in
the Greater Moncton area.
Our pros are not limited to the care of your lawn. They are also
licensed and trained in the care of your trees and shrubs.
As in lawn care, not doing the right thing at the right time in the
right amount can have a devastating effect on your trees and
shrubs. We are able to take preventative measures to protect your
properties investment or complete an service to rectify a current
As with lawn care, we may be able to solve your problems without
use of a chemical measure. If you have a problem, but are not sure
what you need, we can usually tell you right away what has to be
done. If we cannot identify the problem we have an extensive
library and other professionals on staff we can consult as well as
At Price Landscaping Services we are the complete lawn care
company. We have been in the lawn care business since 1968 and feel our service and our
people are second to none.
Give us a call today
(858-7800) and find out for yourself how easy and affordable
it is for you to be on your way to a beautiful, healthy lawn with a
lawn care program from the The Turf Pros® at Price Contractors
Keep your lawn healthy using good maintenance
your lawn with compost and leave grass clippings where they fall
(provided they are shredded finally enough) for nutrient
If the soil is compacted, AERATE in the
fall. This helps oxygen, water and nutrients reach the
to promote vigorous growth, prevent weeds and discourage insect
DEEPLY and infrequently to promote deep roots.
Too much water starves the soil of oxygen and
thinned areas or choose alternative ground covers in difficult
grass with paving stones or mulch in heavy traffic
the lawn regularly to detect pests and other problems
that healthy lawns are less susceptible to pest
ENJOY! A healthy lawn is an ideal
place to relax.
FAQ - regarding the pesticide
How does the pesticide ban affect my lawn care?
A. This is not a ban, but a change in
regulations. The government has removed from store shelves about
240 products that were available to the general public for personal
use. It has also banned the use of any product that has 2,4-D. Any
lawn care provider that wishes to use pesticides must have an
Integrated Peat Management (I.P.M.) specialist on staff and be
enrolled in an I.P.M. program.
Were these products removed because they are
A. No. The government felt these products
were being misused and over used by the public.
Can my lawn be treated for weeds?
A. Your lawn can still be treated as long as
the company meets the new requirements. However the company cannot
use any product which contains 2,4-D. Also the new regulations
state that a lawn can only be treated up to 50% of total lawn area
in one season for any problem. Blanket treatments for weeds are not
Are the weed treatments that are available just as
A. Yes. They are just as effective but take
longer to work.
have moved to a new property and my lawn is mostly weeds, can it be
A. No matter how bad the weed problem is
your lawn can only be treated up to 50% of total lawn area in one
What happens if I get a weed treatment in the spring and then have
an insect problem later on?
A. If the insect treatment is severe enough
(over 50% of lawn area) we can apply for a one-time treatment.
There is a government fee of $50 for this service. This is over and
above the cost of the treatment. However, if the insect problem is
less than 50% of the lawn area and you have already had a weed
treatment on 50% of your lawn area you cannot treat it. This can
lead to serious damage to your lawn. This is why we suggest you do
not do a spring weed treatment.
don’t mind clover but dandelions drive me crazy. What can be
A. Any taproot weed like dandelions, thistle
and plantain can be removed by hand using a weed tool. We offer
this service to our customers.
I do not do a spring weed treatment and I do not require an insect
treatment can I have a weed treatment in the
A. Yes a fall weed control can be carried
out on a spot treatment basis up to 50% of the lawn area. Fall is
actually the best time to treat for weeds.
What else can you do to help control weed and insect
A. Keeping the soil healthy is one of the
most important things that can be done. That is why we do a
complete soil test on all our properties. We also use compost tea
to repair and maintain soil biology. We have also used the services
of two independent soil agronomists to develop the best fertilizer
mixes based on random samplings of soil tests.
What can I as a homeowner do?
A. Proper watering is one of the most important things
you can do. Water deeply but infrequently. A typical lawn only
requires 2.5 cm (1 inch} of water to stay green. Keep your mower
blade sharp and cut your lawn at a height of 5.5-7.5 cm (2.5-3
inches) Leave the clippings on the lawn whenever possible. They are
a good fertilizer and do not contribute to thatch problems. Use a
mulching mower if possible.
The following picture best illustrates where thatch
accumulates in a lawn.
Thatch is a layer of un-decomposed stems and roots that accumulates
near the soil surface.
Grass clippings do not contribute to thatch accumulation. The rate
at which thatch accumulates is determined by the type and vigor of
the grass in the lawn. A thatch-prone bluegrass sod, that is given
lots of water and fertilizer, forms thatch more rapidly than other
grasses given less care.
Thatch is a normal part of any lawn and only becomes harmful when
the thatch layer is thicker than 1/2 inch. When thatch becomes
excessive, the lawn may root into the thatch rather than the soil.
Thatch does not hold moisture so lawns rooted into thatch will not
tolerate dry weather or cold temperatures. In fact, a very thatchy
lawn can be rolled up just like a rug when it dies out.
Thatch management can take several forms.
The easiest management technique is available to homeowners with
underground sprinklers. A 20 minute watering at mid-day, every day,
helps control thatch by keeping it wet. Such a watering also is
adequate for watering the lawn.
Three other options are open to homeowners without underground
sprinklers. They are power rakes, coring and topdressing.
Power rakes, or dethatchers, use power driven tines to tear the
thatch out of the lawn. Much of the lawn gets torn out in the
process. While this is the most common way to dethatch, it is
probably the least desirable. Sections of very thatchy lawns may
need to be reseeded due dethatching injury. Early September is the
best time to use this type of thatch removal.
A more desirable alternative is coring. The limitation here is the
availability of the coring machines. Coring machines remove cores
of soil and sod. The hole allows air and moisture to penetrate the
thatch and help in its decomposition.
A thin layer of soil can be applied over the lawn to help decompose
the thatch layer. This topdressing may also be combined with
coring. The soil introduces micro- organisms that help decay the
A soil test is used to determine the health
of your turf.
It tells us the pH level of the soil, macro and micro nutrient
levels, the amount of organic matter in the soil and the soil
This information allows us to tailor a program that is right for
your turf. There is no more "cookie cutter" approach, which meant
doing certain things at certain times. You now get a report on your
soil from an independent lab with the recommended treatments needed
to give you healthy turf with little or no use of pesticides. Your
lawn will look better and be more resistant to drought, insects and
disease. We are the only company to offer this service to all our
If you are not currently a client of Price Landscaping Services and
would like to have a test done on your property please call
Compost Tea is a microbe-rich liquid made
from high quality compost.
It is a liquid application that is fast acting. This "tea" is made
from all organic material and uses no animal manures which will
reduce your concerns of E.coli or other human pathogens.
We all know that compost is great for vegetable and flower gardens,
now it is available for your lawn. It replenishes the beneficial
microbes to the soil which may have been harmed by over fertilizing
or excessive use of pesticides. These microbes perform many
functions including reducing thatch, supplying natural nutrients to
the soil, build organic matter, reduce nutrient leaching and
stimulate the growth of beneficial insects among other things.
Compost Tea is 100% organic with no pesticides.
It is most beneficial when applied in late Spring, early Summer and
late Summer or early Fall. It has been shown to greatly reduce or
eliminate the need for synthetic fertilizers and pesticides when
used on a regular basis.
Compost tea can also be applied as a foliar spray and an injectable
treatment into the root mass.
If you would like to arrange for a treatment please call
Insects - Lawn
Chinch Bug -
Chinch bugs have piercing mouth parts. They
suck the sap from the crown and stems of turfgrass plants.
Populations of chinch bugs tend to be aggregated. As a result, the
damage usually begins as localized dead patches. These dead areas
are brown, irregular, sunken patches, which can coalesce into
larger dead areas. Chinch bugs thrive in hot, dry weather. Sunny
areas are usually the most affected. All common turfgrass species
in are susceptible to chinch bug feeding, but some varieties may be
more susceptible to chinch bug injury. However, research has shown
that turf cultivars containing high levels of endophytic fungi may
show some resistance to chinch bug feeding.
insect is quite small - the adults are 4 mm in length (Figure 2).
The immature nymphs are bright red in colour when they first hatch,
and begin to darken from brick red to grey/brown when they are
nearly mature. The imma-ture nymphs have a characteristic white
band across their abdomen, which is eventually covered by the
enlarging wings as the insects become larger and
The adult chinch
bug spends the winter congregated under trees and shrubs and on the
edges of lawns under hedges and in flower beds. As the temperatures
become warmer in the spring (mid- to late May), the adults move
into the lawn and begin depositing eggs.The first young nymphs can
be found in late May to early June; these individuals be-come
adults by mid-July. Damage is usually ap-parent by the middle to
end of July. Severe damage is not noticed until August, after
several weeks of hot, dry weather.
Fly - fall
insect but mainly spring
This is a medium-sized light brown species (body
length 1/2 to 3/4 in., or 13 to 20 mm), which is seen outdoors
resting with legs outstretched on walls and window panes or hanging
in vegetation. It is attracted to lights and often finds its way
Fly - larvae
The stout worm-like larvae (called "leather jackets"
because of their thick dark skin) live in damp loose soil or leaf
mold and feed on the roots of herbaceous plants. In the spring,
when such food supplies and moisture abound, large larval
populations may develop and produce swarms of
A short video of Sod Webworm moth flying over a
Sod Webworm is becoming more of a problem as
time progresses. Damage to turf is caused by the larval stage,
while the adult moth is harmless. Early spring is when damage may
first be observed and presents itself as small dead patches among
the healthy green grass.
Sod Webworms prefer sunny areas and can usually be found on south
facing slopes where it is warm and dry. Generally, July and August
is when the most severe damage occurs, as this is when it is hot
and grass plants are not growing at their usual rates. More often
then not, Webworm damage can be mistaken for summer drought stress.
As the worms feed they cause thinning of the lawn. Weeds
aggressively take advantage of this thinning and can become well
established at this time.
One of the best ways to determine if you have Sod Webworm is to get
down into the grass on your hands and knees and inspect these brown
patches for Webworm activity. Pulling the turf up easily is one
sign you may have Sod Webworm. Small green pellets are also a good
indication. This is the waste product of the larvae. If you are
unable to locate the larvae, try pouring about 4 litres of water
mixed with 2 tablespoons of dish soap on the patch of dead grass.
Generally within 5 minutes, if larvae are present, they will come
to the surface. Twelve to sixteen larvae are a good indication of
needing an application of insecticide.
The adult moth can usually be seen flying beginning in June and can
be seen throughout the summer months. Once again the moths are
harmless and do no damage to the lawn. Usually you see these moths
flying up out of the grass as you mow the lawn, flying in a zigzag
pattern. Observing the moths does not confirm damage is being or
will be done by the larvae. These moths can fly quite a distance
and may be coming from other infested areas. Drought stress or turf
diseases can also cause thinning of turf. Any chemical control must
also be focused on the larval stage, not the moths as the larvae
are doing the damage.
Grub - fall insect
Chances are if you have skunks or similar animals
digging in your lawn you may have some white grub (larvea of a
beetle) chewing on your grass roots.
White grub damage in a lawn
A close view of the damage
white grubs under the grass
an even closer view - about the size of a small
European Chaffer - fall/spring insect
European Chafer - A New Turf Pest
Insects - Shrub & Tree
Mountain Ash Sawfly
Damage, symptoms and
As its name suggests, this exotic pest only
attacks mountain ash. However, its larvae can cause rapid, severe
defoliation that nonetheless rarely kills the host. The insects can
produce two generations per year. The larvae, which change colour
as they grow (initially pale yellow, later turning to yellow with
black flecks), feed on the margins of leaves, which they later
completely devour, except for the central veins. The young larvae
are gregarious initially, but as they grow, they disperse
throughout the tree crown. The damage they cause is concentrated in
the summit of the crown, then spreads to the lower branches where
it is usually more severe. The mountain ash, a common species in
rural areas, is often grown as an ornamental tree because of its
foliage, abundant fruit, and relatively small size.
The mountain-ash sawfly has two generations per year in the south
of the country, but only one in the north. It overwinters in a
cocoon in the soil. Adults emerge from the end of May to the first
fays of July. The second generation, when there is one, starts at
the end of July. It is usually small.
The mountain ash
sawfly originated in Europe and was first reported in North America
in 1926 in New York State. The insects spread rapidly and are now
found in vast areas of the northeastern United States and eastern
Canada. In Ontario, it was observed for the first time in 1938.
Mountain ash sawflies have a few natural enemies that limit their
range. Their populations also fluctuate according to climate
variations. Damage caused by the insects can usually be limited by
removing and destroying branches and leaves on which the young
larvae have been present. The biological control of this insect by
an introduced parasitoid is a success in this area of insect
Red Seal Certification - Fall/Winter
We are very pleased to have our industry recognized under the Red
Seal program and are proud to announce that two of our employees
are now fully certified under this program.